วันอังคารที่ 17 กุมภาพันธ์ พ.ศ. 2558

Galaxy Rasbora in aquarium tank




Fish data : Electric Blue Jack Dempsey Cichlid



The Electric Blue Jack Dempsey cichlid Rocio octofasciata cf. (previously Cichlasoma octofasciatum) is considered to be one of the most beautiful freshwater aquarium fish. The adult displays a magnificent blue coloration, and is definitely one of the 'bluest' freshwater fish in the hobby. It has a dark brown background that is covered with brilliant metallic and iridescent blue flecks. It will reach a maximum length of a little more than 8" (20 cm), or slightly smaller than its genetic progenitor,the Jack Dempsey.These fish are also called the Blue Dempsey, Electric Blue Dempsey, and Jack Dempsey Neon Blue.

This dazzling fish is a naturally occurring variant of the Jack Dempsey. According to popular rumor, fry which displayed the bright blue coloring of the Electric Blue Jack Dempsey were considered to be malformed and runtish and were discarded by their keepers as inferior specimens. Fortunately for those hobbyists who appreciate the stunning coloration of these fish, and for the hobby in general, this archaic and incorrect view has been largely discarded and these fish are now being actively bred and developed in captivity. Though the Blue Dempsey is relatively easy to breed, it does take a considerable amount of time, luck, and a well designed aquarium set up, so these fish are rather rare and quite a bit more expensive than many other tropical fish, include the Electric Blue Jack Dempsey's progentitor species, the Jack Dempsey.

The Blue Dempsey is a bit more delicate than its parentage. But just like its progenitors, it likes a tank bottom of fine sand to burrow in and create nests out of. It also needs plenty of hiding places among rocks and wood, and a cover of floating plants. However they will enjoy snacking on any plants in the aquarium, so it is reccommended to monitor the status of any plants sharing the tank with a Blue Dempsey.

This cichlid, true to its family, tends to be semi-aggressive and will appreciate being kept in a large aquarium with similarily sized and tempered tankmates. That being said, it generally is not quite as aggressive as many cichlids and can be shy at times. Thus, it is best to either keep it singly or in a large group with only a few other tankmates.

The Jack Dempsey Rocio octofasciata (previously Cichlasoma octofasciatum) was described by Regan in 1903. This species is not listed on the IUCN Red List. They are found in North and Central America; Southern Mexico, Guatemala, Yucatan, and Honduras. Feral populations have been found in the USA, Australia, and Thailand as well. They inhabit bogs and other warm, slow moving, and swampy waters, living among weedy areas with sandy or muddy bottoms. They feed on worms, crustaceans, insects and fish.

The Electric Blue Jack Dempsey is a naturally occurring color-morph of the Jack Dempsey which has often been bred in captivity. It is said that for a long time hatched fry with this bluish coloration were consider runts and were discarded. This is no longer the case and in fact the fry which display the Electric Blue coloring usually sell for higher prices when mature. They are relatively easy to breed but take a lot of time and the right set-up, so they are more rare and costly than their parentage. Other common names are Blue Dempsey, Electric Blue Dempsey, and Jack Dempsey Neon Blue.

Just like its parentage, the body of the Electric Blue Jack Dempsey is stocky and compact. However this variety is a little smaller reaching closer to the 8 inches (20 cm) in length, rather than the almost 10 inches (25 cm) of a full size Jack Dempsey fish. They generally have a life span of 10 - 15 years.
This beautiful variant exhibits a coloration comprised of mostly 'blues' rather than the 'greens' seen on the normal Dempsey cichlid. They have a dark brown background contrasted with brilliant metallic and iridescent blue flecks. Males develop long pointed dorsal and anal fins and may also have a round black spot in the center of the body and at the base of the tail. Juveniles are less brilliant, having a white to light tan background with faint turquoise to blue flecks that get bolder with age.

If stressed or moody these fish can exhibit great color change in the aquarium, and also with age. Stressed fish will be lighter and their spots will be less striking.

A minimum 40 gallon aquarium is suggested, though a larger tank would be suggested if keeping them in a semi-aggressive community tank with other like sized fish. They need good water movement along with strong and efficient filtration.

Although Dempsey's can tolerate a fairly wide range of conditions, it has been suggested that warmer temperatures lead to more aggression in this fish. Many aquarists will keep the maximum aquarium temperature below 78° F (26° C) to help reduce antagonism.

Provide a bottom of fine sand and plenty of hiding places among rocks and wood. Plants are appreciated but should be hardy, such as Sagittaria. Place the plants around the inside perimeter leaving an open area in the center for swimming. The plants should be potted to protect the roots.
The Electric Blue Jack Dempsey is a rewarding specimen for the aquarist as it is moderately easy to keep as long as the aquarium is maintained.

Though the aggressively territorial Jack Dempsey is not considered a good community fish due to their proclivity to defend their territory, the Electric Blue Jack Dempsey has demonstrated a much more tolerant attitude towards tankmates. That being said, as this fish ages it can tend to become more territorial and aggressive, especially when it is time for them to spawn. If they become too aggressive to cohabitat with the other members of the tank, it is recommended they be transfered to a species only tank. If keeping more than one, it is easier and safer for them to keep them in large groups rather than in pairs.

The author has successfully kept an adult Electric Blue Jack Dempsey with a 12" Peacock Eel, a 10" Chocolate Plecostomus, and a 4" Upside-down Catfish for several years. They get along very well.

The Electric Blue Jack Dempsey Cichlid has been bred in captivity. They are one of the easiest cichlids to get to spawn but as pairs they can become territorial, intolerant, and biters.
The Dempsey fish are egg layers. The female will lay 500-800 eggs on carefully cleaned rocks. They form a nuclear family. The fry are kept in pits and are guarded by both the male and female in the manner of "monogamous cichlid" breeders.

They are subject to infections as well as other diseases that ail all freshwater fish. One common problem is Ich. It can be treated with the elevation of the tank temperature to 86° F (30° C) for a few days since they can tolerate higher temperatures. They are prone to the same diseases as discus. Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE), which was previously called "hole-in-the-head" disease. is common with poor water conditions. HLLE presents as cavities or pits on the head and face. It is believed this may be caused by a nutritional deficiency of one or more of: Vitamin C, Vitamin D, calcium, or phosphorus. In addition, it is thought to be caused by a poor diet or lack of variety, lack of partial water changes, or over filtration with chemical media such as activated carbon.

As with most fish the Blue Dempsey Cichlids are prone to skin flukes and other parasitic infestations (protozoa, worms, etc.), fungal infections, and bacterial infections. It is recommended to read up on the common tank diseases. Knowing the signs and catching and treating them early makes a huge difference. For information about freshwater fish diseases and illnesses


  Credit :

http://www.cichlids.com/uploads/tx_usercichlids/user_pics/1368/1368____file_01_dads_pics_1_491.jpg


http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/ElectricBlueJackDempsey.php

Fish Data : Convict Cichlid




The Convict Cichlid Amatitlania nigrofasciata (previously Archocentrus nigrofasciatus and Cichlosoma nigrofasciatum), a.k.a. the Zebra Cichlid, is a hardy fish with a pugnacious attitude. Their name, Convict Cichlid, originates from the broad, dark vertical lines running down their body, making them similar in apperance to the traditional "jailbird" outfit. When mature, they reach a maximum size of about 5-6" (13-15 cm) which makes them one of the smaller Central American cichlids. The male Convict will be larger than the female, but the females will be more colorful. There are also several color varieties being bred. The popular pseudo-albino forms are known as the Pink Convict Cichlid or White Convict Cichlid.

Convict Cichlids have a tendency towards unusually aggressive and spunky behaviors for a fish their size. For example, they are known for their tendency to attack almost any other fish in their territory, including fish up to three times their size! They are great in a tank with other aggressive fish, just make sure the other fish are not so big that they can swallow your Convict Cichlid whole.
These are an undemanding fish and very easy to care for. A sandy substrate with rocks, roots, and pieces of driftwood will make your Convict Cichlid feel at home. They enjoy plants, especially floating plants to help subdue the light. They will re-arrange your tank however, so be sure to anchor planted plants to the bottom of the tank as the Convict Cichlid sometimes likes to remove the gravel and substrate keeping the plant anchored to the bottom. Convict Cichlids prefer a warm tank and can tolerant a wide range of pH, pretty much anywhere from 6.0 to 8.0, though it needs to be kept reasonably consistent.

One of their most notable characteristics is that they are one of the easiest fish to breed and generally don't even require aid from the aquarist. Due to the extreme ease of breeding, these fish have been called the 'rabbits of the fish world'. They have the reputation of "spawning in the bag on the way home from the fish store". This statement is a bit of a stretch, but not far from reality. 
Although they are small, beautiful, and easy to keep and breed, the Convict Cichlid is also very aggressive. Fishkeepers, especially begginners, should therefore be well informed when choosing this fish as a pet and be mindful of their tendencies and particulars when deciding on tankmates and aquarium setup. 

The Convict Cichlid Amatitlania nigrofasciata (previouslyArchocentrus nigrofasciatus and Cichlosoma nigrofasciatum) was described by G{uuml}nther in 1867. They are found in Central America on the Pacific slope from Costa Rica to Guatemala and on the Atlantic slope from Honduras to Panama. These fish have been introduced to many areas in the United States by fish owners and local American populations are growing. Another common name for this fish is the Zebra Cichlid. The pseudo-albino variety is known as the Pink Convict Cichlid or White Convict Cichlid. This species is known to cross breed with theNicaragua Cichlid Hypsophrys nicaraguensis and the crosses are fertile to at least the 4th generation. The species is not listed on the IUCN Red List.

Until the mid 1980's there were some 100+ species that were described under the genus Cichlasoma. But around this time it was determined that they no longer fit in that genus and were moved into their own various genera. Many were left orphaned and are now temporarily designated as "Cichlasoma" (with quotation marks) until the scientific community decides what genus to place them in. This allows only true Cichlasoma to remain in this 'corrected' genus, currently comprised of 12 species.

The rivers they inhabit are the Tarcoles, Aguan River, and Guarumo River. They like waters that are flowing from smaller streams to larger fast flowing rivers. They dwell among the shallow rocky areas where they hide in cracks and crevices, feeding on worms, insects, fish, crustaceans and plants. They can also be found in warm pools of springs. These fish are almost never found in open waters and prefer areas with some sort of coverage.

The Convict Cichlid has a stocky oval disk shape, with pointed anal and dorsal fins. This is one of the smaller Central American cichlids, with the males only reaching 5 - 6" (13 -15 cm) in length and females a bit less at 3 - 4" (8 -10 cm). They are also very deep bodied so it's easy to underestimate their actual size. They have a general life span of 8 - 10 years, though there have been reports of individuals living up to 20 years.

This cichlid has a blue-gray, cream, or blue-lavendar base on the body with 8 to 9 dark vertically running bands. They have a break in the vertical bands in the area behind their head, almost forming a "U" shape. The fins are clearish to light yellow.

With in-line breeding there are now several color varieties. The Pink Convict Cichlid or White Convict Cichlid are pseudo-albino varieties that are pink and cream, and lack the characteristic vertical bars. The coloring of the male is monotone while the female will have an orangish patch on the stomach.
All cichlids, along with some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish, share a common trait of a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth located in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming.

Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related.

The Convict Cichlids are fairly easy to care for provided their water is kept clean. Aquariums are closed systems and regardless of size all need some maintenance. With home aquariums the nitrate and phosphates build up over time and the water hardness increases due to evaporation. Because these fish are very sensitive to pollutants and pH instabilty, so it is important that at least 15- 20% of the tank water is replaced bi-weekly, especially if the tank is densely stocked. When doing the water changes always use a gravel cleaner to ensure all of the decomposing organic matter that has built up is removed. The majority of of problems that occur with tropical fish tanks usually come down to one cause: decomposing organic matter!

Convict Cichlids do best when they are allowed plenty of space and a large aquarium. A pair of juveniles can do well in a tank as small as 20 gallons. However, it is recommended that once they become fully grown that they be moved to a tank of around 50 gallons or more. They prefer to have good water movement and efficient filtration. They like a warm tank and can tolerant a wide range of pH, pretty much anywhere from 6.0 to 8.0, though it needs to be kept reasonably consistent.
This cichlid has some salt tolerance and can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it is not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of normal a saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.

Provide a sandy substrate with rocks, roots, and pieces of driftwood. They also enjoy plants, especially floating plants to help subdue the light. They will re-arrange the aquarium so make sure substrate plants are anchored down. Normal aquarium lighting works fine if there are floating plants, and low to moderate lighting if no plants.

Convict Cichlids are cave spawners. They will readily breed in captivity and are one of the best cichlid parents around. One author's very descriptive remark is that to breed them you "just add fish and water". A group of juveniles will result in a pair being formed, leaving the remaining fish cowering in the corner if the tank is small.

The pair will shake their heads at each other in a little pre-spawning dance. The male will position himself vertically and change to darker, more vivid shades of color. The female will do the same dance and flare up. They will then clean an area and dig a depression in the substrate around a rock, flower pot, or cave. The female will lay about 20-40 eggs on the inside top of the cave or flowerpot and the male will follow her up and fertilize them. This will continue until there are 100-300 eggs, depending on the maturity of the female. She will fan the eggs while the male keeps an eye on the nest and patrols the outside.

Depending on temperature and pH, the young hatch in about 48 to 72 hours. Within another 6-8 days they are free swimming and can be fed powdered (crushed) flake, daphnia, baby brine shrimp, and/or pellet food for omnivorous cichlids. They can be advanced to full flake at about 3 weeks old. The female helps out by stirring up the sand with her belly to expose food that has settled at the bottom, or by chewing up food that is too large and spitting it into the water for the young to eat. The parents also secrete a mucus like substance on their bodies that is a sort of supplementary food for the fry. 
The parents defend their babies at all cost and will push tank mates to the other side of the tank. If they feel their young are threatened, they may actually bury them in the sand. They will retrieve any fry that stray from the nest and the male will viciously guard them to the death.

You can remove the fry after a few weeks if you plan to raise them, allowing the breeding process to start again. If you do not remove them the female sometimes will eat the young. This will result in the male attacking the female to the point where you may have to remove her or put in a divider. The young are ready to breed within a year.


 Credit :

http://www.mycichlidaquarium.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/301324201_6f66af03cb.jpg

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/ConvictCichlid.php




Fish Data : Blue Acara Cichlid



The Blue Acara Aequidens pulcherhas been a cichlid of choice for many years for the South American cichlid aquarium. Its species term pulcher means "beautiful", and true to its name it is a beautiful medium sized fish cichlid. Its color is mostly a steel blue-gray, but it is distinguished from other Acara species by a broader forehead. It can reach up to about 8 inches (20 cm) in length, but it will start to breed at a much smaller size of only 4 inches.

This is a hardy species that makes an excellent choice for the beginning cichlid keeper. They are moderately easy to care for as long as the water quality is maintained and they are provided a quality diet. They are a ready feeder and if bred they become excellent parents. They spawn easily and take very good care of their fry.

This cichlid is a bit more courteous than the others of its genus. A peaceful community cichlid, it can be kept with other similar sized South American cichlids, catfish, or plecostomus. Though it is a fairly peaceful member of the Cichlid family, it is apt to bully smaller fish. It should be kept with the same size or larger fish.

The Blue Acara is generally peaceful even with its own kind. If more than one is kept, they will form pairs. They will also usually not bother any fish that stays away from its territory, except when it is breeding it may tend to become more aggressive. They will breed every two weeks on a regular basis if the fry are removed shortly after hatching. However they are excellent parents and will not harm the fry even if left in the aquarium.

They are most comfortable with a tank bottom of fine sand and plenty of hiding places among rocks and wood. Plants are appreciated, but Blue Acara love to dig and can uproot them. Hardy plants such as Sagittaria andVallisneria are best, and should be potted to protect the roots. They need frequent water changes as their excretions will cloud the water and promote disease.
The Blue Acara tends to be confused with its very similar looking relative, the Green Terror Aequidens rivulatus. For some time the Green Terror was actually known as the A. pulcher, but it is now recognized as an independent species. The Blue Acara is slightly smaller and not as aggressive as the Green Terror, nor does it develop as large a hump on its head when mature.

The Blue Acara is an oval shaped fish that is stocky and compact with pointed anal and dorsal fins. They are a moderately sized cichlid reaching about 8 inches (20 cm) in length with a life span of about 7 - 10 years. They become sexually mature at about 2 1/2 inches (6.35 cm) and will begin to breed at 4 inches (10 cm).

This colorful fish is mostly a steel blue-gray coloration with various spots and striping on its body and head. There are a few green horizontal lines on the face and their overall bluish-green scales give them a sparkling appearance. The sexes are very similar in appearance, but the male's fins are longer and the rays of the dorsal and anal fins will often arch around the tail fin.

All cichlids, along with some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish, share a common trait of a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth located in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming.

Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related.

The Blue Acara are fairly easy to care for provided their water is kept clean. Aquariums are closed systems and regardless of size will need some maintenance. With home aquariums the nitrate and phosphates build up over time and the water hardness increases due to evaporation. Because these fish are very sensitive to pollutants and pH instabilty, it is important that at least 15- 20% of the tank water is replaced weekly, especially if the tank is densely stocked. When performing the weekly water changes always use a gravel cleaner to make sure all of the decomposing organic matter that has built up is removed. The majority of of problems that occur with tropical fish tanks usually come down to one cause, decomposing organic matter!

The Blue Acara will need a minimum of a 30 gallon aquarium. The substrate should be made up of a soft sandy substrate with adequate caves and shaded places for the fish to retreat to if stressed. For a natural feel add dried leaf litter which will bring natural occuring microbe colonies as the leaves decompose. These colonies will also be a very important food source for any fry that may appear. Adding bags of aquarium safe peat will also give the tank the blackwater feel that they come from. These fish enjoy using plants for coverage and extra shade, but they are known to dig up the plants so it is best to have floating or potted plants. A tight fitting lid with moderate lighting is good for this fish and some natural sunlight will help bring out the most in their color. Since the Blue Acara prefer a strong amount of water movement, adding a strong canister filter or powerheads will aid in giving the proper amount of water movement. This fish can tolerate brackish water that has a specific gravity of less than 1.0002 and a salinity of about 10% of a normal saltwater tank..

The Blue Acara has been bred successfully in captivity. They are egg layers and tend to deposit their eggs upon flat surfaces open to the water (such as a flat rock at the bottom of the tank). They become sexually mature once they reach about 2 1/2 inches (6.35 cm), though most will begin to breed at 4 inches (10 cm). As the time to spawn approaches, the male and female will both begin to display, with their displays increasing in frequency the closer they are to spawning. Well adjusted pairs may spawn several times a year.

The breeding water should be neutral to slightly acidic with a pH of 6.5 - 7.0, soft to medium-hard at between 3 - 12° dGH, and have temperatures between 73 - 79° F (23 - 26° C). A ph of 7.0 and a temperature of 76° F and higher will help initiate breeding. A monogamous cichlid, the female lays the eggs on carefully cleaned rocks. Both parents will guard and care for the young.



Credit :

http://tankfishtips.com/wp-content/uploads//Aequidens_pulcher.jpg


http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/blueacara.php

Fish Data : Black Belt Cichlid



The attractive Black Belt CichlidParaneetroplus maculicauda (previously Vieja maculicauda and Cichlasoma maculicauda) is a popular choice for both beginner and experienced fishkeepers. As with most cichlids, the Black Belt Cichlid is an intelligent fish and can come to recognize and respond to a particular owner. In addition, the Black Belt presents a beautiful and unique red, black, and white color combination and a relatively docile temperament. These characteristics coupled with fairly easy maintenance and breeding requirments make this fish a wonderful choice for any devoted aquarist. 

Though they are large at a maximum of 12" and can be aggressive and are not considered a community fish, the Black Belt Cichlid has a somewhat more docile manner than many of its relatives. It can be kept with others of its own species, a group of 6 if they are raised together in a very large tank. In a breeding pair the male is not aggressive towards its mate if there is plenty of room, though it can become very territorial and aggressive towards others when spawning. These cichlids can also be kept with other Central and South American cichlids of a similar temperament as long as there is plenty of room. Aquariums 120 gallons or more can work well with these groupings while a single fish will require a recommended minimum of 70+ gallons. 

The Black Belt Cichlid is easy to moderate to care for as long as large and frequent water changes are diligently performed. They can be kept in both fresh and brackish water. They are not demanding and can take a wide range of pH, though it must be kept stable. They will feel at home with moderate or subdued lighting, and will appreciate a sandy substrate with a decor of bog wood, roots, and rocks having plenty of hiding places. Plants will not do well as they will be eaten. Provide flat smooth stones for spawning.

The Black Belt Cichlid is a deep bodied oval disk shape fish with pointed anal and dorsal fins. These are very large fish, with the males reaching almost 12" (30 cm) in length. They are also very deep bodied so its easy to underestimate their actual size. They have a lifespan of 8 - 10 years.
The body of the male is silvery white with a black band, either solid or sketchy, encircling the midsection just behind the pelvic fin. The caudal fins is all red or partially red and there is red blotching on the chin and throat that runs from the lips to just before the pelvic fin. The female is dark gray in color with a red tail and black freckling. Older fish, especially the males, develop a nuchal hump on the head. Because of its extensive distribution area in the wild, there are several color morphs.

All cichlids, along with some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish, share a common feature of a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth located in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming.

Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related.

The Black Belt Cichlids are fairly easy to care for provided their water is kept clean. Aquariums are closed systems and regardless of size all need some maintenance. With home aquariums the nitrate and phosphates build up over time and the water hardness increases due to evaporation. Because these fish are very sensitive to pollutants and pH instabilty, it is important that at least 25- 30% of the tank water should be replaced weekly, especially if the tank is densely stocked. When doing the weekly water changes always use a gravel cleaner to ensure all of the decomposing organic matter that has built up is removed. 

As with most predatory species a highly efficiant filter is needed because of the amount of waste that thet produce. The filters or a powerhead should provide moderate water movement for the Black Belt Cichlids.

As with most large cichlids, the Black Belt Cichlid needs a great deal of space. If keeping just one or two of these fish, an aquarium of at least 70 gallons is recommended. If keeping a small group of Black Belt Cichlids an aquarium of at least 120 gallons is recommended. These fish can be kept in freshwater or brackish water with low to moderate salinity of less than 1.010 sg. The substrate should be a smooth sand/gravel mix and decorated with twisted roots, bog wood, rocks, and caves large enough for the fish to retreat into. Providing flat smooth surfaces to the substrate will help facilitate spawning. No need to add plants to the tank unless they are planned to be used for food!

The Black Belt Cichlid requires very clean water and is sensitive to pH changes. To aid in accomplishing this, use highly efficient filtration systems that can provide moderate water movement. Canister or sump style filtration works best. A secure top should be installed with moderate lighting.

These fish are moderately aggressive and are not considered a community fish. However, a Black Belt Cichlid can be more docile or aggressive depending on the size of the tank you provide them with. If you provide a very large tank, 120 gallons or more, they can be kept with larger fish that have a similar or the same temperament. In aquariums with hundreds of gallons they are a lot less aggressive. If, however, two or more are kept in an aquarium of 60 gallons or less it is likely they will become aggressive towards one another.

Some experts have suggested maintaining these fish in a specieis specific tank and isolating them from other species. They can be kept alone or as a mated pair, or kept in a group of 6 if they grow up together in a very large tank. Make many places for the female to hide when spawning. Suitable tank mates for the Black Belt Cichlids are Texas Chichlids, Green Terror, Convicts, Synspilums, Pimelodids, large Characins, Tilapia and Hemichromis.

The Black Belt Cichlid has been bred in captivity. For breeding larger cichlids, this fish is a great choice. The male does not thrash the female like other large cichlids do as long as there is a lot of room, a 150 gallon tank or more. Provide flat smooth stones as a spawning substrate. The pair will circle each other, and after moving the gravel out of the way, the female will lay up to 600 eggs. The fry are free swimming in 8 days are are very small. They will eat artemia and grow quickly.


 Credit :


https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4147/5188647903_fe82d0b027.jpg

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/BlackBeltCichlid.php


วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 5 กุมภาพันธ์ พ.ศ. 2558