วันศุกร์ที่ 22 สิงหาคม พ.ศ. 2557

Fish data : Brevis Shelldweller Cichlid





    Neolamprologus brevis is one of the more commonly seen Tanganyikan shell dwelling cichlids in the hobby. Unlike most other shell dwellers, they often live in areas with low shell densities, Neolamprologus brevis ''Katabe''so they have come up with a living arrangement that is unique in the shell dwelling world – both the male and the female share the same shell. This ability to thrive in areas with low shell densities is the reason that they are found throughout the lake. While most books will have you believe they always share a shell, my pair has a different opinion on this issue. Sometimes they share the same shell, but other times they each have their own shell. I’m not sure why they only live together on a part-time basis, but since they have spawned three times it is obvious the relationship works for them!

    As with other Tanganyikan cichlids, they prefer a pH of 7.8 to 9 with hard water. Temperature of around 78 degrees is perfect. Males grow to a maximum of about 6 cm whereas females reach about 4 cm in length. This size differential is one of the keys to differentiating the sexes. The male also simply looks more robust and has, in my opinion, more of an Altolamprologus facial profile than the female does. Except for these minor differences, the two sexes are morphologically identical.

   There are two commonly seen varieties in the trade – the sunspot and the "standard" brevis:

    The sunspot brevis is a brownish-mauve colored fish with a bright golden spot on each side of the fish right behind the pectoral fins. During periods of stress, the fish develops light tan stripes down its sides.

    The "standard" brevis is actually from Kigoma, Tanzania. It has a brownish body with 9 tan stripes down its side.

    Both variants also have florescent blue lines beneath the eyes when they are seen in the right light.
Due to their small size, this shelldweller will do well as a pair in a 10-gallon tank. Actually, you might be able to keep two pairs in a 10 gallon tank. They have very small territory requirements and certainly the smallest territorial requirements of any cichlid I’ve ever kept. My brevis have never actively defended an area larger than about 6" to 10" around their main shell. Granted, in their area, they will attack my hand or the gravel vacuum, but they are rather peaceful with other tank mates.

   The Brevis Shelldweller is an omnivore that feeds on plankton in the wild. In the aquarium they can be fed frozen blood worms, brine shrimp, and small protein cichlid pellets. They need some vegetable matter, so include some spirulina based foods along with a pea or piece of spinach. Live daphnia and live brine shrimp can be offered as a treat.

    You can feed 2 to 5 small pinches of food a day in smaller amounts instead of a large quantity once a day. A one-day-a-week 'fast' can also be beneficial. All fish benefit from vitamins and supplements added to their foods.

    The Brevis Shelldwellers are egg layers and they are easy to breed in captivity. They are sheltered substrate spawner that prefers spawning in shells. They are monogamous and pairs will guard a small territory of about 4 - 8" and seldom over 10". You can buy several juveniles and wait for a pair to form. Remove the others unless you have a large tank that can accommodate more than one pair.

Keep the tank in a calm area to encourage breeding. Some state that If they are stressed, they will not breed and the stress could kill the fry. Sometimes the male and female will share the same shell during spawning, but there are different personalities so this may not be the case with all pairs. In the wild the male has been known to physically remove snails that get too close to the eggs, continuing until the snail has had enough and gives up.

The breeding tank should have slightly to moderately alkaline, medium hard water with to a pH of around 7.5 - 8.5, about 15° dGH, and a temperature between 75 - 80.5° F (24 - 27 C).The female deposits about 30 - 100

When they are ready to spawn the female will approach the male, then bend and quiver in a position that exposes her belly to the male. This gesture will be followed by the female approaching her shell, quivering again before entering, then entering and depositing her eggs. The male follows the female to the shell, and then positions himself above the opening and in quivering gestures ejects his milt to fertilize the eggs inside the shell.

The female deposits only about 15 - 30 eggs which develop in about 24 hours. They young are free swimming after about 6 days. The couple may not guard the fry, but in some cases the female may provide some care for the fry for up to about two weeks, with the male doing some guard duty. The fry will hide in the shell or in crevices. After the fry are older and the parents are ready to spawn again, the previous sibling set will have to be removed or the parents will attack them to make room for their next brood.


Credits :

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/BrevisShelldweller.php

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/n_brevis.php

http://www.fishchannel.com/freshwater-aquariums/species-info/cichlid/african-cichlid-neolamprologus-brevis.aspx


**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************





Fish Data : Blue Neon Cichlid



    The Blue Neon a is possibly the least aggressive cichlid on the planet. Endemic to Lake Tanganyika, Blue Neons are extremely peaceful and prefer to school together in groups of 8-10 (without any problems); they completely tolerate conspecifics and actually seem to be friendly with each other; the same can also be said in regards to heterospecific tank mates. Blue Neons have a brick-red to bright red base color with several, spaced neon-blue horizontal lines down the length of the body (from the face all the way to the caudal fin); they also have neon-blue tipped fins with neon-blue markings throughout; this is how they received their well deserved nickname. The Blue Neon is a perfect choice for beginners, all the way to expert hobbyists; they are also extremely popular and are readily available through online retailers and local stores.

     In the wild the Blue Neons inhabit deeper waters but will tend to stay close to towers of jumbled rocks. The males will hang underneath rock shelves while the females will swim in large schools above. Years ago it was thought that these fish were hard to keep, but following simple procedures will result in an easy fish to keep.

     These are good fish for the intermediate and experienced cichlid keeper. In generaly they are easy to moderate to care for as long as regular water changes are done to keep water at optimal levels. However they prefer dim lighting and need rocks for security. These fish will swim upside down or vertically to be close to the rock surface. Males will stress out and fade in color if kept with companions that are too vigorous and without rocks structures and cave formations. Plants also help provide security for them.

    The Blue Neon requires an aquarium of 55 gallons or more and should be housed in a Tanganyika biotope system: A light, find sand substrate with rock rubble and plenty of dark rocks (contrasting substrate and rock shades bring out the color in the species) that make multiple caves and crevices providing shelter, territory, and multiple areas to explore (rock structures should reach the surface of the aquarium if possible). Ample swimming space is appreciated as well as decent water movement. Live plants are appreciated and add to natural biological filtration as well as more territory and shelter; African Water Ferns, Anubias, and Vallisneria are good choices and will do well in alkaline conditions. Blue Neons can easily coexist with other tranquil Tanganyika cichlids and have been known to do very well with Xenotilapia and other Sand-dwellers as well as Cyprichromis and Featherfins.

     In the wild they feed on drifting zooplankton in open water above the rocks. In the aquarium they can be be fed flakes including a high quality spirulina and frozen foods such as brine shrimp. Use foods with carotene to bring out their color. Feeding cyclops or artemia that will bring out their best colors, but once they get a taste for these they will usually ignore the flake.

     It is suggested that you do not feed live foods and tubifex worms due to possible diseases and pathogens that may be transferred to your fish. Feed 2 to 5 small pinches of food a day in smaller amounts instead of a large quantity once a day. A one-day-a-week 'fast' can also be beneficial. All fish benefit from vitamins and supplements added to their foods.

     These fish have been bred in captivity and are mouthbrooders. For the easiest breeding, putting the Blue Neon in a species specific tank works best. If housed in a community tank, float plants so the females have a place to retreat when carrying the brood. The breeding tank should have neutral to slightly alkaline, medium hard water with to a pH of around 7 - 8.5, 10 - 15° dGH, and a temperature between 77 - 82.4° F (25 - 28 C).

     They spawn about once a month. When ready to spawn, the female will find a spot in the substrate next to a wall and go nose down. This will prompt one of the males to situate himself above the female and release milt (sperm) as the female releases her eggs. The eggs are then fertilized externally. The female promptly picks up 10 to 12 fertilized eggs to carry her mouth. The brooding female will hold the young in her mouth for approximately 21 days and the fry will become free swimming after that.

    The fry are large and will grow quickly. As they grow the fry do not get the protection from the female, so be sure to provide hiding places. The parents and other males and females will not eat the fry. The fry will start to eat when free swimming. First feed them brine shrimp and cyclops and after 2 to 3 months offer finely crushed flake. They are a creamy color after 2 months and sexually mature by 8 months.



credit :

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cichlid/BlueNeon.php

http://www.aquariumdomain.com/viewFreshwaterAfricanCichlid.php?id=76

http://www.aqua-fish.net/imgs/fish/paracyprichromis-nigripinnis.jpg



**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************


 




Dario kajal picture


 These is Dario kajal from Meghalaya, N E India ^  _ ^










  Credit Picture by Andrew Rao



**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************


วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 21 สิงหาคม พ.ศ. 2557

We ll swim together ^ _ ^


  That s really cute actions of 2 catfishs Ha Ha Ha.....




**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************

Pelvicachromis Moliwe picture


Pelvicachromis Moliwe Dwarf Cichlid picture




Credit picture by Atlantis fish shop



**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************



Short body Nile tilapia Cichlid



   This is short body Nile tilapia cichlid ,  There cost is about  46 dollar US. 

          I see it from some fish shop in " Jatujak market " in Thailands. Have you ever seen some

          Nile tilapia who have a body like this before ?  ^ _ ^




**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^


**************************************************************

Beautiful KOI Picture






**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************


Rhinomugil corsula juvenile picture

This is Rhinomugil corsula juvenile from West Bengal, India.





Credit pictures by Andrew Rao



**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************

วันพุธที่ 20 สิงหาคม พ.ศ. 2557

Amblyceps variegatum picture








Amblyceps variegatum from Mae-Gong river in Thailand.



Credit : http://www.siamensis.org/webboard/topic/39376

Parapsilorhynchus discophorus picture






Parapsilorhynchus discophorus from Maharashtra, western India.




picture credit by Andrew Rao

วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 14 สิงหาคม พ.ศ. 2557

A beautiful collection of many fish from Uttarakhand, northern India.


  In these area have so many beautiful fishs ^ _ ^









**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************

Chitala chitala pictures

These is Chitala chitala (?) from West Bengal, India. ^ _ ^




 

Picture Credit by  Andrew Rao



**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************

วันพุธที่ 13 สิงหาคม พ.ศ. 2557

Stigmatogobius sadanundio pictures





Stigmatogobius sadanundio ....... The Knight Goby  


Credit : Saumya Chakrabarti


**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************

All type of color of wild Discus Cichlid in the world

 All type of color of wild Discus Cichlid in the world , Which color that you love it ?  ^ _ ^






**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************

Cute goldfish need some foods ^ _ ^

Cute goldfish need some foods ^ _ ^

Super full moon Discus

Super full moon Discus 





**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************

Ram Cichlid lay her eggs picture





**************************************************************

  If you need to support this webblog , you can buy some fish article in

this link Thankyou very much for your kindly support ^ _ ^

**************************************************************