Common Name: Tiger Barb
Scientific Name: BarbusTetrazona
Origin: The tiger barb originates in South-East Asia and are native to
Indonesia and . They live on the Malay
Peninsula, on the Malaysia island of
Sumatra and on the . The tiger barb can however today
be found in many waters around the world where it voluntarily or involuntarily
have been introduced by man. Countries where it has
been introduced includes island of Borneo Australia, Singapore, Suriname and . Colombia
Habitat: Warm, shallow, fast flowing rivers, which are well planted.
Water Region: All - These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium, but prefer the middle of the aquarium.
Tiger Barb Description
There are few varieties of tiger barbs with rounded bodies and large coarse-looking scales. They have a pale yellow colour with 4 black stripes running down their bodies. They have a slight “bump” behind the snout leading up to the base of the dorsal fin.
The tiger barb has long been one of the most popular and most kept aquarium fish species and there are today a wide variety of different color morphs available in the aquarium trade besides the common tiger barb. Such morphs include albino tiger barbs, green tiger barbs and golden tiger barbs.
Tiger Barb Adult Size
These fish are small at 3 inches (7 cm) long and 1.18 inches wide and they can be even smaller in captivity.Sexual maturity is reached at approximately 1 inch in length.
Tiger Barb Life Span
Tiger Barb Life Span
The lifespan of Tiger Barbs is about 6 years
These fish are omnivorous, they will accept most aquarium foods. But try to vary their diet like you would any other fish, to keep them looking their best.
Tiger Barb Care & Tank Mate :
These fish are suitable for beginner aquariums where they are best kept in large schools. Tiger barbs can often resort to fin nipping if they are kept in too small schools but this is seldom a problem if they are kept in large schools. It is however still recommended to avoid keeping tiger barbs with slow moving, long finned fish species. such as angelfish, bettas, and gouramies should be avoided as their fins are too much of a temptation for eager tiger barbs. Fish with a very small adult size such as neon tetras and dwarf rasboras should also be avoided as the tiger barbs will most likely outright kill them over time. With this in mind it would be safe to categorize the tiger barb as a "robust community species" that can be housed with other robust medium sized fishes. This is in contrast to the occasional erroneous categorization of tiger barbs simply as "community fish" as many fish that fall under this broad category will face inevitable peril if housed with tiger barbs.
Aquarium Setup :
Tiger barbs should preferably be kept in aquariums no smaller than 60 centimetres (24 inches) long. The aquarium should be decorated with hiding places among plants and plenty of room for swimming. Rocks and driftwood will also be appreciated and other information about Tiger Barb aquarium setup is here ,
- Substrate Type: Any
- Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting
- Temperature: 68.0 - 79.0° F (20.0 - 26.1° C)
- Range ph: 6.5-7.5 - Hobbyists intending to breed their stock should keep the water slightly acid (to 6.5).
: 2 - 30 dGH Hardness
- Brackish Water: No
Sex: Sexual differences :
When these fish are mature, male tiger barbs will show bright red noses, his dorsal fin will have a red line above the mainly black fin and his ventral fins will turn bright red. When in spawning condition or fighting for a higher “rank” in the shoal, the males stripes turn a slight metallic green colour. And the tips to his upper body scales turn almost black and shine bright orange in certain light.The females however, keep their pale yellow noses (may turn slightly pale red at times, which makes it tricky to determine their sex in store). They only show a small area of red at the tip of the dorsal fins, and ventral fins will stay pale red. In females, their stripes stay black.
Breeder can spawning and raising the fry is a relatively simple task. Should be set up a breeding tank of at least 20 gallons. Keep the water slightly acidic for breeding. The tank should have a heater if your aquarium temperature is cold, sponge filter, a layer or two of marbles on the tank bottom to hide and protect the eggs, and some of live plants. Lower the temperature to 25 degrees Celsius. Introduce the female first and condition on a variety of live, frozen or freeze dried foods like brine shrimp, the same goes for the male, but keep them separate for two days before introducing the male. When the female has filled with eggs put the male in the breeding tank in the afternoon. You will/should notice them instantly start to swim around each other and the male will “head stand” and spread all his fins right out and display to the female.
The actual spawning will take place the following morning. The male will franticly chase her through plants, nipping at her anal and ventral fins, soon the female will allow him to catch up with her, he will force her against the plants and she will release 1 – 3 eggs, which the male will instantly fertilize. Then the eggs will fall into plants and in between the marbles. Sometimes marbles can be a bad choice as some fry may become stuck in between them. The marbles also mean that you cannot tell whether you have any eggs unless you can see under the tank. Feed the pair with small white worms or bloodworms to reduce the amount of falling eggs they eat. Females can hold 200-700 eggs and will release them 1-3 eggs at a time. They will keep this up until all her eggs have been released. After she has released all of her eggs the pair will simply loose interest with each other, it is time to remove the pair. Put the male back in the community tank, the female can be added to the community tank or you can put her in a recovery tank for 2 weeks, then add her to the community aquarium.
Breeder should be carefully take the marbles out of the breeding tank, checking to make sure there are no eggs attached to them, leave the plants, heater and sponge filter in. Eggs that turn white can be removed as these are infertile and the fungus will spread to fertile eggs killing them! The eggs will hatch in around 48 hours.
Raising the fry:
Once the eggs have hatched, you will notice tiny fry stuck to plants and the tank sides. They look like tiny shards of glass with 2 black dots, the eyes.
Do not feed the fry until they are free swimming as the fry are absorbing their egg sacs, this usually takes around 5 days. Use this time to culture infusoria (tiny microscopic organisms that the fry can eat) and baby brine shrimp. As soon as the fry are free swimming they will be looking for food, now is the time to start feeding, they will eat anything that can fit into their tiny mouths, so start with infusoria. You can buy commercial fry food, but not as many fry can find that food, they prefer the food to swim to them. After a further 5 days, you can start to feed them newly hatched brine shrimp nauplii, this will sometimes turn their stomachs orange, it won’t harm them, this is just the colour of the food. When the fry get a little bigger, you can start to feed them finely crushed tropical flakes (which you can make by crushing some flakes to powder). Then when a little older, you can move on to feed them a little older brine shrimp (juvenile) or daphnia, or crushed freeze-dried foods. When the fry reach a size of 11mm, you don’t need to crush up their food as much. Carry that on until they reach 2-2.5cm, then you can feed them regular sized flakes and foods. Fry will need to be fed no more than 3 times a day, when feeding infusoria, a small amount in the morning can last all day!
When the fish reach 2.5-3cm, you may add them to your community tank or sell them to your LFS (although phone them up first)
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