วันพุธที่ 26 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2555

Fish Data : Jack Dempsey Cichlid

Description :
    The Electric Blue Jack Dempsey is a freshwater fish that originates in the murky warm waters of Central America. It has a base color of electric blue to gray, and displays many iridescent blue and green spots, giving this fish a spectacular look.

Quick stats:
Listed tank sizes are the minimum
10 inches  (25.0 cm)
48 inches, larger for adults
Bottom, middle
7 to 8.5
Medium hard to very hard
77° to 82°F  (22 to 30°C)


Status:    This species is not listed on the IUCN Red List.

    Central America, Honduras, Guatemala and the Yucatan.

General Body Form:
    Somewhat elongated with lateral compression. In the males the Dorsal and Anal fins are pointed and can reach a length to the middle of the Caudal fin. In the females they are shorter and more rounded. The Caudal fin is fan shaped. In older males the forehead swells to a telltale bump.


    The male "Jack" base color is a dark Brown to Gray Brown, which when spawning or in top condition becomes dark Blue or Blue Black. On the scales on the sides there is a beautiful shinning Blue or Blue Green dot. The young have a series of seven or eight faint up and down bars that usually disappear in adults unless they are stressed or excited. A long Black Longitudinal band runs from the rear edge of the gill covers to a large Yellow edged Black spot in the middle of the side. There is also a similar spot at the start of the Caudal fin. The cheeks and gill covers themselves are covered with Blue dots and the lips are a pale Blue. The Dorsal fin is dark and has a thin Red border. The females are paler in color and the Blue is not as intense.

Scientific Name : Cichlasoma octofasciatum

Common Names : Jack Dempsey Fish, Electric Blue Jack Dempsey

Care Level : Easy

Size : Anywhere from 6 - 10 inches (15 - 25 cm)

pH : 6 - 8.0

Temperature : 75°F - 80°F (24°C - 27°C)

Water Hardness : 5° to 15° dH

Lifespan : 10 - 15 years or longer

Origin / Habitat : Wild caught specimens originate from Central America, Guatemala, and Southern Mexico but hobbyists usually will be buying a farm raised fish. They are often found in slow moving rivers and canals in Central America.

Jack Dempsey Fish Temperament / Behavior : If given a large enough tank (55 gallon or larger) you may not see them being overly aggressive. If you cramp them into smaller tanks, like most fish, they may become more aggressive. Watch them closely.

Jack Dempsey Cichlid

Care and feeding:   

    Since they are omnivorous, the Electric Blue Jack Dempsey will generally eat all kinds of live, fresh, and flake or pelleted foods. They get quite large so they should be fed a high quality pelleted food and large chunk foods such as meat or fish.

    A minimum 40 gallon aquarium is suggested, though a larger tank would be suggested if keeping in a semi-aggressive community tank with other like sized fish. They need good water movement along with strong and efficient filtration. Provide a bottom of fine sand and plenty of hiding places among rocks and wood. Plants are appreciated but should be hardy, such as Sagittaria. Place the plants around the inside perimeter leaving an open area in the center for swimming. The plants should be potted to protect the roots.

   The Electric Blue Jack Dempsey is a rewarding specimen for the aquarist as it is moderately easy to keep as long as the aquarium is maintained. They are subject to infections as well as other diseases that ail all freshwater fish. To help prevent the notorious 'Hole-in-the-Head' disease (HLLE - Head and Lateral Line Disease) that large cichlids are prone to, do water changes of 20 to 25% a week, depending on bio load

Water Region: Top, Middle, Bottom:    These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium. 

Acceptable Water Conditions:   Although Dempsey's can tolerate a fairly wide range of conditions, it has been suggested that warmer temperatures lead to more aggression in this fish. Many aquarists will keep the maximum aquarium temperature below 78° F (26° C) to help reduce antagonism.

   Hardness: 8-12° dGH
   Ph: 6.5-7.0
   Temperature: 72 - 86° F (22 - 30° C)

Jack Dempsey Cichlid Pair Hiding

Social Behaviors:    Though Jack Dempsey's are not considered good community fish as they get territorial, the Electric Blue Jack Dempsey has demonstrated a much more tolerant attitude towards tankmates. They also can get more territorial as they get older and so may need to be kept individually in a species tank. If keeping more than one, it is easier and safer for them to keep them in large groups rather than in pairs. 

Sexual Differences:    The male has a longer and more pointed dorsal fin than the female. The male may also have a round black spot in the center of the body and at the base of the tail. The female has fewer spots than the male.

Breeding : Jack Dempsey's are open breeders that need well-oxygenated water. They spawn in burrows, laying up to 500 eggs. The fry are well protected by the parents, and once mated, they will continue to spawn once the fry have grown.


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Fish Data : Siames glassfish

Local Name: Glass fish.

Common name: Siames glassfish.

Scientific name: Parambassis siamensis.

Family name: Ambassidae.

Animal Type: Aquatic Animals.

Animal characteristics: Size of this fish is about  3-6 cm, They have a rectangular body and a large head and eyes forward. They have clear body like a skeleton.Their ventral valve have a silver or white color.
Diet : Small insects, fish and shrimp.

Quantities in nature : Medium and low in some locations.

Uses : for food.


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**************************************************************Picture Credits :  http://www.bedo.or.th/lcdb/biodiversity/view2.aspx?id=7677

วันอังคารที่ 25 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2555

Fish Data : Microrasbora Kubotai

Microrasbora Kubotai.

Classify: Actinopterygii.

subclass: Neopterygii.

Order: Cypriniformes.


Family: Cyprinidae.

subfamily: Danioninae

Kind: Microrasbora.

Species: Erythromicron.


Descriptor : Annandale 1918.

Synonym (S) or Common noun (S) : Rasbora emerald.

Origin : Asia (Myanmar). South AsiaBurmaLake Inlé and small river environment.

Zone of life : Medium and inferior.

Maximum size: 2 to 2,5 cm.

Temperature: 21°C to 25°C : and PH: 7,2 to 7,4. Hardness: 10 dGh to 25 dGh

Diet: Blood worm, Daphnia, Cyclops , Mosquito Larva and flakes fish food.ETC

Water: This fish need a good quality of water . They seem adaptable and there are reports of them doing well in both acidic and slightly alkaline conditions, so anything neutral ought to be fine. 

This Small fish who can eat a variety of foods. They can kept in a small tank of its own, or with other tiny fishes. It's an idealspecies for use in a heavily planted nano tank where a shoal can be kept in a very small volume of water. They are Normallyyellow-green in colour with a metallic gold lateral stripe and hyaline fins. At the time of the original publication of this article, this species was a member of the Microrasbora genus, which then included: M. erythromicron, M. gatesi, M. rubescens and M. nana.M. nana is most similar in appearance to M. kubotai, but can be separated by the presence of a black mark on the dorsal fin which is absent in kubotai, as well as differences in scale and fin ray counts.


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วันจันทร์ที่ 24 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2555

Beautiful Nature Picture : Bonito Mountain

   This is a Bonito Town located in the Bodoquena Mountain in  Mato Grosso do Sul  , Brazil , There are a natural museum ( aquarium natural ) for those who like water plants and fish as well. and tourists can dive for see a beautiful nature in this river.


Beautiful Nature Picture ^ _ ^

    Hello Everybody !!! that s a beautiful pic that i met it today ^ _ ^

วันอาทิตย์ที่ 23 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2555

Fish Data : Blue Acara Cichlid

Other Information

Species:Aequidens pulcher

Origin - Central American areas ;Colombia, Panama, Trinidad, Tobago, Venezuela

The largest scientifically measured Blue Acara was 16.0 cm (6.3 in). The body of the Blue Acara is compact and stocky while the fins are long and flowing. The forehead is noticeably larger than in other Acara species.
The exact colouration varies regionally between the various populations. The main body colour is a kind of sparkly steel blue-gray, but the exact shade varies from pale off-white blue to bluish-green and all the way to really deep blue. There body is decorated with 5-8 vertical black stripes (which may not always be distinctly visible) and blue iridescent spots and the face sport a few horizontal green lines. The fins have a hint of orange on the tips and some specimens have a red topfin rim.

Common Problems: Intestinal protozoa and starvation on acclimatisation, heavy parasite loads in wild caught fish. Sensitive to deterioration in water quality, but aside from that, tough as old boots when well fed and kept properly.

Similar Species: Often confused with Green Terrors (larger species), and young Jack Dempseys, both of which are more aggressive than the Blue Acara.

Care and feeding:    Since they are carnivores, the Blue Acara needs protein foods. In the wild they eat worms, crustaceans, and insects. In the aquarium provide them with live foods such as bloodworms, earthworms, and tubifex. They may also eat frozen foods (such as brine shrimp or blood worms) as well as protein flakes or tablets.

   A minimum 30 gallon aquarium is suggested. They need good water movement along with strong and efficient filtration. Provide a bottom of fine sand and plenty of hiding places among rocks and wood. Plants are appreciated, but the Blue Acara love to dig and can uproot them. Though these fish burrow they don't damage plants as much as other cichlids. Hardy plants such as Sagittaria and Vallisneria are best, and should be potted to protect the roots. Normal lighting is fine, but some occasional sunlight will help bring out their natural colors.

   The Blue Acara can be rewarding to keep for aquarists that are observant and diligent in providing care. Frequent water changes are necessary as their excretions will cloud the water and promote disease. Do water changes of 15 to 20% a week depending on bio load. They are subject to infections as well as other diseases that ail all freshwater fish.

Water Region: Top, Middle, Bottom:  These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.

Acceptable Water Conditions:   
    Hardness: to 25° dGH
    Ph: 6.5 to 8.0
   Temp: 72-85° F 22-30° C

Social Behaviors:    They are usually only kept with other fish at least their own size. Although not overly aggressive, the Blue Acara are monogamous and will pair off, developing a strong nuclear family. They get territorial when spawning and also may burrow and damage plants at that time.

Sexing : The male's anal fin is wider than female's.

Breeding :

The Blue Acara Cichlid is great for beginners because it is easy to breed. The breeding pair should be well-fed and the water temperature should be maintained at around 89 degrees.

The female will lay about 200 eggs on rocks, plant leaves, and driftwood. The eggs will usually hatch in about 78 hours, and the fry will be free-swimming within a week. The new fry should be fed baby brine shrimp for a week.
The adults offer parental care of the eggs and fry so they don’t have to be put in a separate tank. The breeding pair can possibly spawn again while still caring for their existing brood. The parents will become aggressive toward other fish in the tank during spawning and brood care so it may be wise to have the breeding pair in their own tank.
Because the Blue Acara Cichlid is colorful, non-aggressive and hardy, it is a welcome addition to any aquarium.


Expected lifespan of Blue acara's is usually up to 10 years.


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Distribution:    The Blood Parrot, also called the Bloody Parrot and Blood Parrotfish, and another variety known as the Jellybean Parrot are fish developed by breeders and hobbyists. Since they are a hybrid, they are domestic and only found in aquariums. The Blood Parrot is said to have been bred in Taiwan and the suggested parents are Central and South American cichlids.

Status: There are no wild populations of this species.

Descriptions : The Blood Parrot Cichlid is a hybrid fish that was first created in Taiwan in the mid to late 1980's. Its parentage has been highly disputed, but the most commonly speculated pairings are Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus Citrinellus) with the Redhead Cichlid (Paratheraps Synspilum). One of the more wild theories is the Severum (Heros Severus) with the Red Devil Cichlid (Amphilophus Labiatus). Blood Parrots have a round body, a beak shaped head with an upside down triangle mouth. They are often seen in bright orange in coloration, but seen in other colors such as red, yellow, brown, and tan.   A further developed variety is the Convict Parrot Cichlid, which is also called the 'Jellybean' Parrot or 'Bubble Gum' Parrot'. This is actually a 'double hybrid' fish. It is a cross between a female hybrid Blood Parrot and a pink male Convict Cichlid Archocentrus (Cichlasoma) nigrofasciatus. Blood Parrots have reportedly been crossed with other cichlid species such as the Severum and the Texas Cichlid. So there may be other new varieties showing up down the road.
   All cichlids share a common feature that some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish have and that is a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth that are in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming.
   Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related.

Size - Weight:    These fish generally get up to 6 - 7" (15-17.5 cm), though some will reach 8" (20 cm).

Care and feeding:    Since they are omnivorous the Blood Parrot, Bloody Parrot, or Blood Parrotfish will generally eat all kinds of live, fresh, and flake foods. To keep a good balance give them a high quality flake food or pellet everyday. Feed brine shrimp (either live or frozen) or blood worms as a treat. Live guppies and goldfish will suffice when they get bigger. Proteins high in B-carotene will promote good coloring.

    A 30 gallon tank will be fine for juveniles for the first couple of years, but for adults 55 gallons is suggested. They prefer slow to moderate moving water along with good efficient filtration. The aquarium should have low to moderate lighting. Provide a substrate of fine dark sand along with rocks and roots for places to hide along with open areas for swimming. Plants can also be included as they will not bother them.

   They can be easy to care for if water changes are performed frequently. Do water changes of 20 - 25% weekly, more or less depending on stocking numbers. If water quality is ignored, as with all cichlids, disease and death can occur. One common problem is Ich. It can be treated with the elevation of the tank temperature to 86° F (30° C) for 3 days.

Water Region: Top, Middle, Bottom:   These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.

Acceptable Water Conditions:    Hardness: 2-25° dGH
   Ph: 6.5 to 8.0
   Temp: 70-82° F 21-28° C. Their colors will pale in the lower temperatures.

Mixing with other fishes:

The blood parrot is a cross-bred from cichlids parents, and you would expect these fish to be highly territorial and aggressive. However, these fish are surprisingly shy and peaceful - and many owners have successfully kept them in a community tank with other mid-size fish such as danios, angelfish, and catfishes. However, true to their parents' heritage, these fishes can be highly territorial and may fight with their tank mates if kept in a community tank.
If these fishes are kept with other cichlids, care should be taken to ensure that their tank mates are not overly-aggressive.

Sexual Differences:    Sexing them is difficult. Males will show a pink around their gills and on the throat when they are in spawning colors.

Blood parrots will attempt to breed in an aquarium and some pairs attempt to breed very frequently (every few weeks). What most people find is that a pair will court, clean a nest site and then lay eggs. However, the eggs do not hatch in many cases. The parents will continue to care for the eggs for several days until the eggs turn white with fungus and then the parents will likely eat the eggs.
Interestingly, recently more and more people report that their blood parrot cichlids are successfully breeding.


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วันศุกร์ที่ 21 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2555

Fish Data : Daffodil Cichlid

Scientific Name

Neolamprologus Pulcher

Common Name
Daffodil Cichlid

Lake Tanganyika
General Information
    The Daffodil Cichlid is a small fish that, outside of the tropical fish tank, is found wild in only one lake in the world. This does not make them rare, since the lake to which they are endemic is actually the world's second largest by volume, Africa's Lake Tanganyika in Tanzania, which includes more than 250 species of cichlids, with the daffodil cichlid being just one. The limited range of the cichlid does, however, mean it has more specific requirements for aquarium survival than some species.
Distribution:    The Daffodil Cichlid was described by Trewavas and Poll in 1952. These fish are endemic to Lake Tanganyika and are found widespread in the southern part of lake. They inhabit rocky coastlines and swim in large schools, but will form monogamous pairs to spawn in caves. They feed on swarms of plankton drifting in the lake water along with microorganisms such as small crustaceans and invertebrates. 

Status:    This species is listed on the IUCN Red List with the status of 'LC', meaning 'Least Concern'. 

Description:    The Daffodil Cichlid is a graceful fish and has a very pleasing coloration. They have a light colored tan body washed with hints of yellow and bluish purple spots. The yellow is stronger along the upper portion of the body and onto the dorsal fin, and around the base of the pectoral fin. There are two vertical crescent shaped bars just behind the eye highlighted with a bit of blue. The dorsal fin is lyre shaped and they develop long flowing filaments on all unpaired fins. The fins are tipped with an icy blue. They have brilliant blue eyes. 

Size - Weight:    The Daffodil Cichlid grows to a length of 4 - 5" (10 -13 cm), generally larger specimens in home aquaria.

     Daffodil cichlids grow up to five inches in length and tend to be active swimmers, so they need a decent sized aquarium. If keeping just daffodil cichlids, then a tank of 15 gallons or larger is suitable. Mixing in other species requires more space to avoid conflict, so a minimum size of 50 gallons is best for an aquarium. The aquarium should have a layer of either sand or fine substrate on the bottom and have plenty of rocks, caves and hiding places for the fish.

 Aquarium Conditions
     The aquarium needs an efficient filter to keep the water's oxygen levels high and clean away solid waste. Daffodil cichlids prefer an alkaline water with a pH of over 8 up to 8.5, as lake Tanganyika is somewhat salty, like an inland ocean. If caught from the wild, the cichlids prefer the higher end of the pH range. The fish fare best with a water temperature of between 72 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit and cannot tolerate higher or lower temperatures for long.


     Daffodil cichlids are omnivores in the wild, and they eat plankton, crustaceans and small invertebrate, as well as some aquatic plants. In captivity, small daily feeds of commercial flaked fish food and occasional live or frozen brine shrimp offer a balanced diet. The fish should not be overfed, as uneaten food can rot and affect water quality.

Water Region: Top, Middle, Bottom: These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium. 

Acceptable Water Conditions:    Hardness: 10-20 dGH
   Ph: 8.0 to 8.5, wild caught specimens prefer the higher Ph.
   Temp: 72-77° F (22-25° C)

Being a male cichlid 'nanny' brings its rewards

Lake Tanganyika is the second to largest lake in the world, thus contributing to a low fluctuation in Ph and temperature. Several things all Lake Tanganyikan cichlids need are:
  1. Stable temperatures kept within acceptable limits. Anything under 72° F and over 86° F for too long is not tolerated by many of these fish (for ich, a few days at 86° F is acceptable according to one author).
  2. Lots of oxygen to survive. Lake Tanganyika is a very oxygen rich lake. Bubblers need to be going day and night, even if there are plants.
  3. Avoid overfeeding and overstocking.
  4. Do a 10-20% water change weekly.
  5. Regularly check nitrates (no more than 25 ppm), Ph (less than 7 is not tolerated), total hardness and carbonate hardness.
Social Behaviors:    

    The Daffodil Cichlid is a fairly non-aggressive community fish. They can be kept in a smaller species only tank or in a larger aquarium with other durable fish. However they are avid spawners and breeding pairs will establish a territory and defended it together. This fish is also very protective in defending their fry. They don't burrow or disturb plants.

     If kept in a community type environment, the tank mates need to be much larger with their own established territories. It is best to introduce the Daffodil Cichlid last. Some cichlids they can be kept with are others of their own genus such as the Lemon Cichlid Neolamprologus leleupi and the Cylinder Cichlid Neolamprologus cylindricus. Other species include some of the Altolamprologus genera, such as the White Pearly Calvus and the Compressed Cichlid; and the Julidochromis genera such as Mariner's Julie and the Convict Julie. It is best to avoid housing them with the African cichlids from Lake Malawi or Lake Victoria. 

Sexual Differences:    

    These fish are difficult to sex. Males are heavier bodied than the females, slightly bigger, and have a slightly larger forehead. Though it is hard to tell, the male also has longer and more pointed dorsal fin and anal fins. 

Breeding the Daffodil Brichardi

     In order to encourage spawning, the Daffodil Brichardi should be fed a diet of high protein for several weeks. These fish are egg layers and will deposit their eggs under driftwood or in rocky caves. A clay flowerpot positioned on its side will also provide a good spawning site.
     The best way to get the Daffodil Brichardi to breed is to place eight fry in a tank and allow them to find a mate. Chances are that there should be at least two pair of breeding mates in the group of eight. Once the fish are over two inches in length, they will be ready to breed.
     The eggs will hatch within four days and the fry can be fed baby brine shrimp or finely ground flake food. There is no need to isolate the fry because the parents will provide excellent care for their young.
     The Daffodil Brichardi is a prolific breeder and is an ideal fish for beginners who want to learn how to breed African Cichlids. Optimal water conditions should enhance the colors of this beautiful yellow fish and create a very attractive aquarium.


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